Nothing leaves the kitchen that Lode De Roover has not preened to make perfect. From the surgically sliced vegetables to the high-flying cooking and inspired plating, this amateur of outstanding classical produce leaves nothing to chance. Sure, he has a creative streak, but his talent lies first and foremost in his 100% reliable cooking.

This pared-down, contemporary establishment set in a former linen manufacture illustrates and proves the overriding importance of consistency and quality in the catering business.